Land Cruising – New Zealand-Style
We arrived in New Zealand with two goals; get Turtlebones ready for another South Pacific cruising season, and explore this beautiful country by land and by sea.
After five weeks of living in a boatyard – more on that topic later – attending to what seems like a never-ending list of boat projects, Sharon and I were more than ready to hit the road.
I know what you’re thinking; sailors hitting the road?
Invariably, after sailing to a new destination, we travel inland by car, taxi or public transit. The sea and its coastlines are undeniably wonderful. But traveling inland by road opens up an entirely different world. One that’s at least as complex and interesting.
Besides, at least one of us is a pretty serious ‘gear-head’. And, we both love road-trips.
While New Zealanders are world-renowned as passionate and very accomplished sailors, they appear equally enthusiastic about camping. Indeed, camping and tramping are so integral to Kiwi identity they’re enshrined in law. As a result, camping infrastructure exists almost everywhere. Unlike Canada where camping is largely a rural pursuit, here camping and facilities to support it can be found in both rural and urban settings.
Like Canada, there are commercial camp grounds, as well as those in New Zealand’s extensive system of national parks. But unlike Canada, there is a third option – a vast network of so-called ‘Freedom Camping’ sites. Designated by local governments, as the name suggests, camping is available free-of-change. Sometimes they’re simply a couple of spots in parks or on other types of public land. But most have much greater capacity.
Freedom sites provide a perfect place to spend the night while road-tripping. Think of them as a kind of ‘camper-van motel’.
Best of all, many are directly on ocean beaches, lakes, or along river banks. In urban areas they might be on the street or in parking lots. We camped in the heart of Wellington, the nation’s capital, in the parking-lot of a sailing club which had about 50 spots designated for freedom-camping – just a short walk into the town centre and a shorter drive to the ferry terminal. Most sites have well-kept bathrooms, some are equipped with barbeques, sinks for dishwashing, and cold showers. All completely free!
Really quite remarkable.
Like most things in New Zealand, it’s all very structured and safe. There are clearly posted rules at each site – backed up by hefty fines for violators. In one alcohol-free site, we were fortunate to avoid a $500 penalty for our ignorance of the rules, and completely flagrant transgressions. Other rules, like the one we saw threatening a $300 fine for washing dishes in the toilets, give one pause – what circumstances could possibly have provoked creation of that particular regulation?
Finding camping sites is dead easy. Just fire up one of the excellent camping Apps, and all the information you need, including consumer reviews, is at your fingertips – along with the location of every public toilet, shower and dump station in the area.
The equipment people use to camp runs the gambit – from tents all the way up to elaborate motor homes, albeit smaller than their North American counterparts. The majority, however, are vans. Many are DIY conversions of small vans or SUVs, others are larger, more luxurious commercially-made rigs. Freedom campsites are often restricted to ‘certified self contained’ vehicles – those equipped with toilets as well as ‘black’ and ‘grey’ water tanks.
Our Renault-based van ranks somewhere in the middle. Sharon claims it’s less than half the size of our bathroom at home. And, she’s probably right. However, they do pack a lot into these tiny abodes – standing headroom, a bed, a small two-piece WC (toilet and shower), a mini-bar fridge, plus a combo two-burner cooktop and sink unit. A solar panel on the roof provides enough power to run the fridge and our electronics.
But living space is tight. So, unless it’s raining, we eat outside – there’s simply no room inside to sit and dine comfortably. And we’ve become quite proficient at ‘stuff shuffling’. During the day our bags and other bulky items like the Starlink dish occupy the bed, and each night they migrate to the van’s cab.
As long at the weather cooperates, these living arrangements work well. All the while, allowing us to take in a healthy slice of New Zealand’s spectacular natural beauty, and enjoy it close up.
Wonderful photos and story telling Bill. You and Sharon are learning the rubics cube of packing on land now, you are used to it at sea. Those free campgrounds sound amazing. Keep the stories and photos coming!
Hello Ann, you’re right living on a boat gives us a leg-up is packing all our stuff into every little nook and cranny. The spot we’re camped in now is right on the ocean. So nice to fall asleep to the sound of big rollers crashing on the beach.
Great to hear that you have finally hit the road! I am hoping that your ferry crossing was not too rough. The Cook Strait can get very rough very quickly.
Enjoy the South Island – it is certainly an amazing place.
Ahoy Greg, the crossing was lovely and smooth. We spotted a few sailboat making the crossing as we approached the South Island, and were envious. That said, road tripping was absolutely the right decision. Hope we can catch up while you and Patti are here.
So gorgeous! But those are tight quarters – even smaller than my first apartment, and that’s saying something!
Hi Julie, there are times when we long for Turtlebones’ spacious quarters. But this cozy living isn’t so bad – all part of the bargain for the once in a life-time opportunity to enjoy New Zealand’s many unique charms.
Am I somewhat envious?…..You Bet! (We were in our Mason 32 down south to Bahamas for one year, we managed the space well, with no fridge, ac power, shower and survived to come back in one peace, and still married? Looking forward to your letter. cheers, Mike. Safe Traveling!
Hello Mike! Your trip down to the Bahamas was very inspirational. As you know, it’s a small minority of Great Lakes sailors who venture out to sea. Memories to last a lifetime, my friend.
Camp on, friends! So interesting reading your take on camping in New Zealand! Seems like a fascinating country with lots to explore before you even set sail! Enjoy!
Hello Danny and Shelley, Each day the countryside changes, and each day we think ‘how can it possibly get any better’. Even though New Zealand is a long way away from every other place on earth, it’s little wonder ‘over-tourism’ has become a bit of problem – word’s gotten out.
So many beautiful places in this world to explore…glad you two are also exploring land!
It’s just the best when you can sit outside and see all the stars as there are no lights around (especially when it’s free) and thank God for making such a wonderful world.
Hello Linda, we’re totally enjoying our sojourn ashore. And very much looking forward to the contrasting, and complementary, pleasures on live at sea. I hope your own extended land cruising is going well. Looks like a good year to have avoided winter. Be safe as you make your way home through our once friendly neighbour.
Glad to see you are back blogging on this site. What a brilliant idea this thing about freedom campsites. Keep on “vanning”!
Somehow I knew this post would appeal to you and Kim – being the avid van-campers that you are. Closet New Zealanders, maybe?
Sounds delightful … happy “freedom” camping.
Thank you Linda. I suspect you and Rob would love New Zealand. Freedom camping is, I think, one of the products of this island nation culture with its deeply ingrained DYI ethos.
Great to see you both back in action. NZ is beautiful. I assume you have now figured out how to use the camping app to filter out alcohol-free sites?
Now Shawn, you know Sharon and I aren’t that tech-savvy. Besides, putting our beer and wine in thermal cups seems to works just fine.
I just wrote a longish reply, only to lose it… I think that it might have had something to do with what I said about Starlink – UGH!
This sounds like a blast and re-living camping and exploring the countryside in the 70’s and 80’s. All that’s missing is the big daisy splashed across the body of your cool van.
New Zealand sounds like a blast. I love it that people can camp for free in various areas. So civilized.
Sounds like you two are enjoying yourselves after a few weeks cleaning your boat in dry-dock.
Take care of each other – love, Colleen
Hello Colleen,
Yes, our Starlink is the source much shame at the moment. We’re still enjoying van camping, four-plus weeks on. And, meeting some interesting people as we go is a nice bonus.