Fragile Atolls

Did you catch this featured article in today’s Globe and Mail?

The island nation of Tuvalu could disappear. The government is building a digital replica in its place
https://www.theglobeandmail.com/canada/article-the-island-nation-of-tuvalu-could-disappear-the-government-is-building

Tuvalu is a full 5 days away from where we are now in the northern Cook Islands – and No, we won’t be going there. But Tuvalu is an island nation archipelago of “low islands” or “atolls” in the South Pacific, home to about 11,000 citizens – so reminiscent of the Tuamotus, similar in so many ways, including its vulnerability to climate change.

Penny Lotoala, a Tuvaluan woman interviewed for the article, is 67 years old. Same age as me. The changes she describes all happened in her lifetime, in my lifetime.

When I first set eyes on Fakarava (Tuamotus), I was struck by its serenity and its beauty – but above all, by its fragile beauty.

For sure, there were those, other cruisers, who were dismissive of my concerns. Just as there are many who dismiss climate change altogether. But as you may know, I’m not prone to pessimistic delusions – or to pessimism at all. Still it was impossible to shake this image, this not-so-romantic image, of the fragile atolls. Not for prime time perhaps, definitely not for the tourist brochures, maybe not even for Cruising World magazine.

Tuvalu is on the front line of this issue. This drowning nation issue. Tuamotus and other South Pacific atoll nations won’t be far behind.

Bill and I continue our crossing to Suwarrow. Almost 3 full days into it now. A little less wind than we’d expected – progress is a little slower but super-pleasant, smooth sailing. Glorious days, mostly sunny with cooling breeze. So peaceful. Reading, eating, sea bird watching, trimming sails, Blue Jays highlights, napping. Repeat.

More unsettled at night, but nothing serious. Mild disturbances, very local, they come and they go – typical I think of dry season in these parts. Sometimes a stormy patch comes up quickly, and then it’s gone before you know it – usually preceded and/or followed by a patch of no wind at all. The little storm patch gathers up a head of steam by hoarding all the wind to itself and then taking it away as it moves on. Leaving Turtlebones bereft and bobbing. Breathless. But not for long.

Speaking of nightime, the night watches are not nearly as challenging as I’d anticipated. We’ve settled on four 3-hour shifts, from 8pm to 8am. I get the first shift while Bill sleeps from 8pm-11pm – easy peasy, a natural for me! – and then again from 2am-5am – really not so bad with three hours of good sleep under my belt. The trick is to be disciplined about it. Eat an early dinner – not our normal routine – and make sure Bill goes horizontal by 8pm. And for both of us, grab the right amount of sleep during the day. Strategic napping is the key. It’s something you just have to learn – and I’m getting pretty good at it.