Creatures of the Sea

Turtlebones and her crew are now one week out of port and 1,000 miles from mainland Mexico. Persistent light winds over that last five days continue to limit our progress. As I write this, we’re loafing along at a not-so-hot 4 knots.  The racer in me longs for more speed. But even I have to admit, these relatively calm seas are a pretty fair trade-off.

Various people have asked about the wildlife we are encountering at sea. Last year on the way to and from the Sea of Cortez we saw plenty of turtles, rays, dolphins, birds and seals. We also spotted a few whales.  

Way out here, almost nothing. A pod of playful dolphins did come to visit a few days ago, soon after we passed some remote islands.  Occasionally, a sea bird makes an appearance. No doubt hoping we’re a fishing boat where a free lunch might be found. But otherwise, there are surprisingly few signs of life.

That doesn’t mean that there isn’t life in the oceans around us. As the 1970’s song, Horse With No Name, observed: “The ocean is a desert with its life underground, And a perfect disguise above.”

There are things down there, but for the most part we can’t see them. The creatures we saw on last year’s voyage to the Sea of Cortez were mostly mammals. They need to come up for air, which is when sighting occur.   

We do, however, find evidence of life, or more accurately former life, in the form of aquatic cadavers on our decks most mornings. These unfortunate creatures – flying fish and squid – have hurled themselves out of the water in a desperate attempt to avoid being eaten by predators.

Flying fish exit the water swimming at speeds of more that 50 kmh, then use their super-long pectoral fins to glide above the waves in flights for freedom, soaring as far as 200 metres. In the daytime, we usually see them skimming just above the wave tops. But sometimes they go much higher. I recently found one on the cabin-top, which is at least two metres above the surface. Some mornings we can find upwards of a dozen stiff ones scattered on the decks and trampoline.

Imaging a flying fish suddenly smacking into the side of your head as you’re contemplating the stars during a lovely night watch in the cockpit. Trust me, it’s quite startling. Luckily, it hasn’t happened to any of us on this passage – at least not yet.

Squids eject jets of water for propulsion, the thrust of which is powerful enough for them to breach the surface.  This morning I found one on the screening above our main cabin port. That’s more than two metres from the side of the boat and nearly as high above the water. 

All that effort just to land on a passing catamaran and perish. Talk about bad luck!

– Bill