Hunkered Down in the City of Sails

The noise and motion are unrelenting.  It’s day-three of a nasty easterly gale that’s been hammering New Zealand’s North Island.  The worst has passed here in the Hauraki Gulf, but today’s forecast is still pretty sobering – winds 40, gusting 55 knots (101 Km per hour), heavy rain, and very rough seas.

We left the Whangarei town basin a week ago for our ‘shake-down sail’.  Turtlebones had been out of the water for 18 months. Finally, back at sea and sailing once again, it was time to test the boat’s systems, and various bits of new gear.  We did encounter some issues – most notably, the auto-pilot wouldn’t steer.

But even having to hand steer the entire 50-miles couldn’t dampen our excitement.  Auckland is, after all, the city of sails.  A mecca like no other for sailors.  A city of 1.6 million people, and more than 160,000 registered sailboats.  One-third of all households own a boat.  

There aren’t many places where sailors are full-blown celebrities.  This city has hosted the America’s cup three times since 2000. And, Kiwis take tremendous pride in having dominated the event for the past three decades.  The sailing world’s ‘giant killers’ – a nation of 5.5 million that regularly beats all comers.

Situated on the Hauraki Gulf, Auckland is surrounded by water.  The Gulf is littered with lovely islands that offer almost endless opportunities for exploration and anchoring.  Many of the islands, and various parts of the mainland, are served by ferries, providing frequent and convenient access to downtown Auckland.  Some of the islands are large and close enough to effectively be suburbs, with sizable permanent populations who make the daily commute.  Most are dotted with beautiful beaches and what Kiwis call ‘baches’ – weekend retreats that most Canadians would call cottages.  A number feature award-winning vineyards, and like most places in New Zealand, sheep and dairy farming is ubiquitous.   

We spent our first few days here enjoying the charms of various island anchorages. However, with a large powerful gale bearing down on the region, we tucked into the relative shelter of the Bayswater Marina, located directly across the bay from downtown Auckland.

It’s now been three straight days and nights of howling wind and pounding rain.  Coming side-on, the strong winds pinned Turtlebones to the dock.  Our nearly-flattened fenders groan almost constantly from the stress.  We bought three more on day-two. Nine fenders now squeal in unison as they protect our freshly painted hull.

Fortunately, friends from Toronto Greg and Patti – he’s a transplanted Kiwi – were in town visiting friends and family.  Greg knows Turtlebones well, having been aboard for the 13-day voyage from Costa Rica up to Mexico’s Sea of Cortez in 2021.  It was wonderful to reunite again on the other side of the world.  They very kindly drove us around to pick up supplies, including the new fenders.

Being trapped aboard during a lengthy storm isn’t pleasant.  Sleep is fitful with all the noise and movement, and time seems to pass more slowly than it should.  

So, today, on day-three of the gale, ignoring the wind and rain, we decided to hit the beach.  Maybe not the obvious, or smartest, choice.  We bundled into Patti and Greg’s $22-a-day Rent a Dent, and headed to the west coast, which Greg promised would be less windy.  It wasn’t.  

We did, however, have a wonderful time. Yes, we got totally drenched and were pelted by blowing sand.  But, braving the elements stimulated a child-like sense of giddy accomplishment.  We experienced kinship with a few other silly fools out there defying mother nature’s fury. 

Especially the chap who gave us a boost after we left the lights on and drained the car’s battery.  Imagine my surprise when he pointed at my Toronto Maple Leafs hoodie, announced he was from Ottawa, and confidently predicted his Senators would crush my mighty Leafs in the playoffs.  As if…