First Week in Aotearoa New Zealand

We don’t have a lot of time here in New Zealand.  We fly home on September 30 – can’t wait to get home to be with family and friends after so many months away.  But in the meantime, we’ll make the most of our last few days here.   

Easy to do in this beautiful country.  We’ve barely scratched the surface – mostly just hanging here at the Marsden Cove Marina.  But already finding lots to enjoy.

Amazing landscapes.  Ragged coastline, distinctive mountain shapes, and surprising forests. Surprising because 80% of New Zealand’s trees, ferns and other fauna are endemic – evolved in relative isolation over millions of years and found only here on this island nation.  The forests here actually look different.  Perhaps not so surprising to an avid fan of the Lord of the Rings movies shot here in NZ, but to me the forest looks unfamiliar – unfamiliar and interesting.    

Composed of a vast number of native evergreens, including five different species of evergreen beech trees – who knew there was such a thing?  Lots of broadleaf trees but very few deciduous species, almost no autumn colours in New Zealand. 

Many species of endemic conifers, including the huge and mighty kauri tree, widely treasured by New Zealanders, and of deep spiritual and historical importance to the indigenous Māori people. 

The kauri is among the largest and longest-living trees on earth.  These trees grow up to 50 metres tall and 16 metres around, and they can live for more than 2,000 years.  Not unlike Canada’s mighty white pine forests, the kauri was logged almost to extinction before the species was saved.  

The remaining kauri now face a new threat of extinction from a pathogen that has been unwittingly introduced into the forests on animal tracks and on hiker’s shoes.  Many tracks in parks around Auckland have been closed in an effort to save the species, much to the chagrin of local hikers.  In 2022, a new national kauri conservation plan was launched, and although it is science-based, it’s Māori-led.  

A unique variety of palm trees have adapted themselves to this temperate climate. Among the temperate palms is the fire-resistant cabbage tree, the trunks of which were once used as chimneys by early settlers.

Another endemic palm tree is the iconic silver fern tree.  Up to 12 metres tall, with soft green fronds up to 4 metres long and distinctively silver on the underside, the silver fern is New Zealand’s national emblem. 

The emblem appears on the flag of the national rugby team, adorns the hull of New Zealand’s entry to the America’s Cup – and may someday adorn a new national flag. 

But the debate over a new flag has been going on in NZ for decades.  For now, the flag remains the New Zealand Ensign with the Union Jack in the corner and four red and white stars making up the southern cross, confusingly similar to Australia’s flag. 

Like Canadians, New Zealanders feel they’ve outgrown their colonial status decades ago, and I guess it’s just a matter of time before the Ensign is replaced with a more modern and distinctive national flag. 

The silver fern is a strong candidate, but another notable contender features the Māori koru pattern depicting an unfurling fern or a fiddlehead, representing new life, growth, strength, and peace.  Also meant to resemble a curling wave. 

Māori language and culture seem to be very much alive and strong and well-respected here in Aotearoa, the Māori name for this country.  I know nothing about the history of settler-indigenous relations here in Aotearoa New Zealand, and it will be interesting to eventually learn about that past. 

For now, I would just observe that this country is decades ahead of Canada along the road to truth and reconciliation.  In the last 50 years, there has been a major revitalization of the native tongue, te reo Māori.  More than 35 years ago, te reo Māori was formally recognized by the national government as an official language of New Zealand.  And more recently, te reo Māori has begun to penetrate popular culture. It’s quite normal to see or hear Māori references in the media and in everyday conversation. 

The name Aotearoa means “land of the long white cloud”.  The name is attributed to the earliest Polynesian explorers who, on their voyage of discovery 1,300 years ago, spotted a long white cloud formation and they knew it heralded land below. 

Our first week here in Aotearoa was unusually hot and sunny.  Described by the locals as the best weather yet this year.  Now it’s back to cooler, cloudy and rainy – more typical, I guess, of New Zealand in springtime – and the reason for the bright “greenness” of the countryside.  Looks like the long white cloud will be with us for the rest of our time here.

So far, we’ve managed to catch glimpses of some pretty spectacular birds – but no idea yet just what or who we’re seeing.  Here in the marina, it’s mostly the native red-billed sea gull that we see.  Lovely to look at, to my eyes anyway, more attractive than the average gull.  Sturdy bodies, super-white and grey colour, red beaks, red legs and fancy black markings on their tails and wing tips. 

Lively in their habits and in their chatter, they seem to have an extensive vocabulary.  So expressive, I swear I can make it out when they’re angry and cussing at each other, or when they’re just greeting the day.  These are not your typical french-fry scavengers.  We watch them dive and hunt for live food, and then a lively chase ensues, other gulls descending on the successful hunter like a gang of thugs – all the while hollering at each other in the most alarming way.  Handsome, yes, but very far from pleasant birdsong.

In the critter category, that’s about the extent of it.  We haven’t yet seen much other than the lowly gulls.  A few rays and eels keep us company in the clear waters of the marina.  Beyond that, cows – large herd after large herd of cows, often on the move.  Apart from the forests, the surrounding land is dominated by grassy green hillsides and grazing cattle.

It’s a 40-km drive to the nearest biggish city, Whangarei (pronounced fang’aray), population 50,000.  For our first wedding anniversary, we splurged on a rental car and hotel in town, dinner out at The Quay restaurant, wandering around the pretty town basin, and shopping for pounamu.

Pounamu is the Māori word for the particular type of greenstone that is found only in the rivers and beaches of the South Island of New Zealand.  It’s a sacred substance for the Māori people, traditionally used for carving all manner of small tools and weapons, ceremonial and otherwise, and sometimes re-purposed into jewelry and other adornment, often passed down through generations.  

Pounamu is thought to absorb the mana – the spiritual power or prestige – of the owner, and thus accumulates great power as it is passes from one owner to another.  Traditionally, pounamu was so valued by the Māori that a lasting peace could be cemented by the exchange of carved heirlooms.  Pounamu is given as gifts to show good faith and commitment and to seal important agreements. 

We first admired pounamu carved as simple pendants casually worn by a few of the kiwi cruisers we met along the way. They explained that this particular greenstone is available only in Aotearoa.  The classic long teardrop shape recalls the mere, a short rounded club traditionally made of greenstone and used in hand-to-hand combat.

The raw stone can’t be taken or purchased.  In 1997, all naturally occurring greenstone in NZ was ceded back to the Māori in the South Island as part of a claims settlement.  Jewelry and other carved pieces are available for sale, in seemingly limited quantities.  However, as a matter of custom, you mustn’t buy greenstone for yourself, it can only be gifted.

Fortunately for me, Bill was keen to mark our anniversary with a gift, and I was happy to oblige his enthusiasm. 

Whangarei is a pretty and welcoming town.  It has a nearby waterfall, a Māori art centre, and a circular pedestrian loop that follows along both sides of the Hatea River, overlooking the marina and connecting with shops, restaurants and galleries. 

It’s often said that New Zealanders are friendly and welcoming people, and may be even nicer than Canadians. Well, based on what we’ve seen so far, I daresay it’s true!

Tomorrow we move from the marina up to the boatyard.  What Bill calls “boat heaven”.  Looks to me more like a muddy field crowded with boats in need of TLC. 

this chapter is well and truly closing now. Turtlebones will be up out of the water, tucked in “on the hard”.  And we’ll fly home on Saturday.