Splish Splash
Finally. We “splashed” Turtlebones this past Wednesday. It wasn’t our first attempt.
To re-cap. Bill and I left home January 1 to resume our South Pacific journey, arrived in New Zealand on Jan 3rd and spent a month living on Turtlebones “on the hard” – meaning, up on blocks in the boatyard in Whangārei.
There were many boat projects to complete before we could put Turtlebones back in the water, some to be tackled by us and others to be completed by the boatyard – but not without our prodding. Much had been started but left incomplete – the classic squeaky wheel problem, and we had been unexpectedly away from Turtlebones for 15 months.
For a small glimpse into boatyard living. You might imagine, it’s far from glamorous. But it might surprise you to know, it’s also far from uninteresting.
Dusty and dirty. The boatyard consists of the slipway off Whangarei Harbour and the surrounding 12 acres of flat gravel surface on either side – punctuated with several canvas structures and corrugated steel sheds (some rustier or dirtier than others) that house the office, paint shed, slipway team, rigging shed, fabrication shop, as well as several toilet facilities, showers, laundry room, and a staff lunch facility that doubles in the evening as the bbq shelter, kitchen and social centre for boatyard residents like us.
Otherwise the big gravel yard is filled with sailboats of all sizes – mostly monohulls but many catamarans like us, up on blocks with ladder access. Several times a day, we climb up and down the 14-rung ladder for absolutely everything – toilet, laundry, shower, chatting with boat neighbours, cooking on the bbq, washing dishes. The whole while, no water on board. Other boats in the yard had water and power, but not Turtlebones.
The boatyard is surrounded by large, sometimes noisy, industrial operations. Some lights are always on 24-7. Dark sky really doesn’t exist here. Stargazing is not a boatyard activity.
Some cruisers describe living on the hard as the worst kind of camping – and these are people who don’t like camping to start with. But for me, that’s unfair. First of all, I like camping. And second, the boatyard definitely has its charms.
Lots of interesting peeps in the boatyard. First, the cruisers. Mostly couples, usually our age or younger. The odd family with kids – generally referred to as “kid boats”. A Canadian couple, late 30s I guess with their two tweenage kids – home schooling and all, brave souls. An American couple cruising with their 10-year-old son – just the youngest of their 4 kids. A phenomenon of older white men cruising with their much smaller and much younger Asian wives.
Boats arriving and leaving all the time. From all over the world. A few other Canadians, some who have been cruising in these waters for years. Some Aussies, Americans, Germans – one who calls himself Herman the German – Swiss, and Brits. Some came over years ago and made New Zealand home. Others wish they could. A South African-American couple, younger retirees, who describe themselves as “full-time” – meaning, I think, full-time travelling for the last several years, by land and by boat, with no fixed address – their kids wishing they’d settle down somewhere.
To a boat, they’ve all crossed the Pacific. Many have crossed the Atlantic before that. Several have circumnavigated. Some of them more than once.
And there’s another version of full-time. Our colourful and generous boat neighbour Carol, and Ken, her husband of 50 years. They’ve been living here on their boat in the boatyard for something like 12 years – and loving it! They’re unlikely to ever launch again. Carol manages the gardens here at the boatyard. This is their home. And they’re not the only ones who live full-time on their boat in the yard. Thank you, Carol, for letting me jump in with you and Ken on your Tuesday morning grocery runs.
After a month on the hard, we were more than ready for our 3-day visit to Auckland and our 6-week tour of the country. But with many projects still to be completed, and some not even started, I was nervous to be away so long. Turtlebones was on the slipway schedule to launch on March 28. But we wouldn’t return to the ‘bones until March 21, and I wondered, could we really be ready to splash by then? We decided to push out our launch date.
Tricky though, because the slipway schedule gets full, full, full in April and May. It’s a popular time, at the end of summer, when cruisers are eager to get back in the water and ready to sail away, north to “the islands” in May and June. To escape the colder winter temps coming to NZ, and to catch the post-cyclone window in Fiji.
But there’s a challenge. The slipway operation is completely tide dependent – they can haul out and splash only at high tide – usually just one boat in and one boat out each day. So we pushed our launch date out to April 1. Next available date was the 9th. And after that we’d be into May.
Imagine our disappointment when April 1 came and went, and we didn’t go anywhere. Oh, we splashed alright – at high tide, as scheduled, the mighty Hitachi tractor came to get us, pulled us over to the slipway and pushed us into the water. Following which, the crew ferried us out in a little dinghy to the stern of our boat, and we climbed back onboard.
However, the boatyard crew were still onboard working away to adjust our new rudders. They’d been at it since the day before, worked until sundown and back again at first light, the minutes now ticking by in a battle with the 11 am high tide.
Meanwhile, we tested our engines, as is usual before we set free – but we failed the engine test. Major scheduled service had been done on both engines while in the boatyard – but that was a year ago, and as I’ve now learned, diesel engines are like our Bill, they don’t like to sit idle. The Starboard engine started right up and purred like a champ, but the port side just wouldn’t start. We tried and tried – until we burned out the starter motor and killed the battery. By then, we’d reached mid-tide, and the mighty Hitachi had to pull us right back out again.
When would be our next chance to splash?
Unusually, but maybe not for busy April, there were two boats on the splash schedule for April 2 – a cat and a monohull. The monohull had to cancel. Certainly not celebrating their bad luck, but it was our good fortune, and we squeezed back onto the slipway the very next day. Our boat neighbour, Thomas on S/V Dolce Far Niente from Switzerland, was splashing his catamaran that day, but he also encountered engine issues. Still he soldiered on, and we were fast behind him as he cleared the slipway.
Rudders sorted and both engines running, Turtlebones was ready to go. We splashed and then unhitched from the tractor. The crew kept four lines on us and followed along the shore with us to the end of the slipway while we motored out slowly in reverse. I was at the helm. As we neared the end of the slipway, our port engine sputtered and quit – oh dear! But Bill is non-plussed – it’s just “fuel starvation”, he says. I liked the “just” part of that. And then he says, he can keep us going by squeezing a little ball in the engine room. Well OK, Captain, let’s go!
We had planned to head out to sea, to test our other systems – new mainsail, new windlass, refurbished watermaker. Instead we motored gently just 2 miles up river to the Town Basin Marina.
It’s nice here. Friendly place. Right in the centre of town, surrounded by shops and restaurants, major grocery just minutes away. First night, we splurged on a very nice dinner out – with Thomas who shared his high tide slot with us. We like it here – in spite of solid rain for the last 3 days!
Simon the mechanic came back same day to address the fuel supply issue, and today Scott the sparky was back to change up some wires in that engine room. All the bits are now understood and resolved. Still, we’ll stay the weekend in the Town Basin – because it’s nice here, and we like it.
Bill is so happy to be back on the water. In spite of gloomy weather and tied to a dock, he can’t wipe that silly smile off his gummy face!
Oh, such excellent writing. On the edge of my seat, so I was. Looking forward to your next posts and photos, Sharon.
Hi Mary. Many thanks, we love getting your comments. Happy Spring wishes to you and Brian. Your turn to splash soon, just 3 weeks away!
OMG Sharon, I’m exhausted after this read. How will you ever survive once home in a stable environment!!!
Hey Joy Ann, we love your comments. It’s brilliant sunshine here today, summer is back, silly smiles all around. Hugs to you and Gar.
Thanks for the amazing play by play, Sharon! It’s a life, this sailing business! So many things to know, find out about, and put into practice! Just so interesting reading your commentary!
Happy, not trails, but sails!!!
Until the next time, may your port engine work, and your sailing be smooth!
Shelley
Many thanks, Shelley. Happy Spring wishes to you and Danny.
Loving your writing, Sharon. And I’ve seen that silly smile too. Many times, almost always around boats.
For us sailors, what was the engine issue, and how was it resolved?
…also for us non-sailors! I’m always interested in the nitty gritty of the mechanical and technical issues you are regularly having to deal with, often on the fly and sometimes in the middle of nowhere.
are you able to see my reply to Brian?
Hi Brian. Sorry about that, about leaving you on tenderhooks… There were two separate issues with that port engine, both the result of languishing for too long. The electrical issue started with a corroded cable that wasn’t sending enough of the good stuff over to the starter. Then the starter motor had a melt-down and the battery died, both casualties of the extended starting effort. The fix was quite simple – new starter motor, new battery and new battery cable – voila! The fuel supply problem was a culmination of a few things, we think. Again, corrosion – this time corroded fuel hose clamps making gaps for air to sneak in – we replaced those. Also, there was an auxiliary hand fuel pump – aka “the ball” that we used en route to the marina – similar to what you’d see on an outboard motor. The ball apparatus involved a couple of connections to the fuel line that – according to Simon, our entertaining diesel technician – were unnecessary weak links in the fuel delivery system, and so he just yanked the whole thing out. And there’s yet another fuel supply issue that we’re just watching for now. It has to do with the fuel lines that run from the diesel tanks in the foredeck to the engines. On starboard, there’s one line that runs from the tank to the engine. But on the port side, the line runs from the diesel tank back to the cockpit, and then it splits to feed both the port engine and the generator. We might have a small fuel leak in the generator, and that could be creating air pockets in the supply of diesel to the port engine. Again, Simon doesn’t like the split line at all and recommends running two completely separate lines – one to the generator and one to the engine. As that would be a very big job, for now, we are just monitoring the possible generator leak. Aren’t you glad you asked? 🙂
Hi Sharon, yes indeed I just read your detailed reply and I’m glad Brian asked! It’s fascinating to read about the complexity and intricacy of the various systems on board, and the constraints imposed by limited space, and of course the reality of being an ocean going vessel. At the same time, the potential for cascading complications does raise the level of anxiety for a landlubber like me to read about! But for you and Bill, I imagine each hurdle jumped adds more strength to your sword arm(s) {metaphors mixed for your amusement}. Thanks again!
I just love reading what the 2 of you write!! I feel sorry for your bad luck but glad to see you are looking on the brighter side of things…and there will be a whole lotta star gazing just around the corner, oops I should say just up the water. Wishing you safe travels and no problems on Turtlebones (and she looks beautiful with her paint job, btw)
Hey Gump, many thanks, we love to get your comments. Are you home yet, or still travelling around in America? Is it Great Again down there this year? Sorry for the bad pun. Seriously though, is it awkward to travel around the US in this time of the dirty despot? Had a good laugh at the protests in Greenland when the Vances had the temerity to go there for a visit. Protesters wore MAGA hats and carried MAGA placards that read Make America Go Away!
Great to hear you are back in the water. Let the new adventures begin! Thanks for all the grimy details. It’s finally starting to turn a bit Spring-like here, despite the inch of snow we got earlier this week, soon washed away by an inch of rain. Much freaking out about Trump and his tariffs. The “Chrysler” assembly plant in Windsor was immediately shut down – for two weeks they say. But the Tories are fading as the election is proceeding and we have realistic hopes of electing an NDP MP here in Parkdale. She may be lonely up in Ottawa though…
Hi Kenn. Many thanks for your comments. I assure you, no matter how far away we go, there is much freaking out about the dirty despot – tariffs, yes, but they may not even be the worst of his antics. Happy Spring!
Congrats on finally getting the boat in the water and she looks great. Great news that Bill once again has that happy boater smile on again and that it will be more comfortable now that you are no longer on the hard. I have really enjoyed both your blogs and it has helped me forget about the lousy winter we just went through. We just took the cover off our boat and will be “splashing” as you say on April 26th. Enjoy!
Many thanks, Joanne. It’s brilliant sunshine here today, summer is back, so now we have silly smiles all around. I hope spring temps continue their steady march in your direction. With winter melting away and Ken recovering well, sending you and Ken best wishes for a born-again kind of spring – not in any religious sense, just in that fresh new beginning, new energy way. Keep a watch out for crocuses. And best wishes for your splash – just three weeks away!
Thanks again for the details and pictures of your progress ‘on the hard’. Wonderful writing as always. I found myself thinking of the two of you the other day, and wondering what you were up to… never a dull moment even at this stage of the adventure! Safe travels!
Hi Barry. We always love to get your comments. There were many dull moments over the last several gloomy days. But it’s brilliant sunshine here today, summer is back, and now we’re all sporting silly smiles. 🙂
Thanks for a detailed report. You guys rock for all the hard work you put in. Nice to see Hitachi helping you out. ha.ha. Have wonderful trip and safe travels.
Hi RK. It’s great to get your comments, I’m so pleased you’re onboard again for this leg of the journey.
I can feel Bill’s smile in Canada! We are flying out tomorrow. Looks like we might miss you guys!!
Greg
Hi Greg. We’ll be in NZ waters until mid-May, or thereabouts. Where will you be?
Hi Sharon.
We are in Auckland for the first week and a bit. We are paint the windows on the house and cutting back the garden! We are driving up to Mangawai on Friday and staying till Monday morning. Can I assume that you are in Whangarei or are you all over?
My NZ cell number is 0274 572 897 or whatsapp 416 882 3733.
Patti and I land in Auckland on Monday (7th) at dawn.
Gx
We’re here in Whangarei until sometime next week when we will leave the Town Basin and head out towards the sea. We are waiting to arrange a meet-up with Roger, our guy at North Sails. He will come aboard for a few hours to help rig and tune our new mainsail. We’ll also be testing other systems that are either new or haven’t been used for a while, esp the windlass and the watermaker. At some point, sooner than later, we will head up to Bay of Islands where we will meet with the OC Tender folks to do a small adjustment on our new tender. While there, we’ll hopefully pick up, fill in and mail our special ballot to vote by mail in the federal election – we’ve asked for our special ballots to be sent to us c/o OC Tender. That’s the general framework, but our dates are completely flexible at this time – save and except for Roger’s schedule and, of course, the April 28 election date. I’m not sure if we can sail into Mangawhai, but we’ll look into it. Or if it suits you to come up this way, we could meet you in, say, Marsden Cove after our week of testing and your weekend in Mangawhai.
My NZ cell number is +64 290 204 8074, and I’ll shoot you a quick note on WhatsApp so you have that as well. Cheers and Safe Travels.
Thanks for the update on your travels. Nice you are back on the water. Wishing you continued safe sailing expedition. Brian F
Hi Brian. It’s great to get your comments. I’m so pleased you’re onboard with us for this leg of the journey.
Bon voyage mes amies – wishing you blue skies, smooth water, and just enough wind to fill your sails. xo
Hi Kim. Many thanks. We’re still here in the Town Basin Marina for another few days. It’s brilliant sunshine, summer is back, silly smiles are now all around. Tomorrow our North Sails rep will join us to set up our new mainsail, do a full hoist, run reef lines etc – all at dockside, wind/weather permitting, of course. With that behind us, we’ll be ready to exit the harbour and out to the open sea where we can finally start sailing. Hugs to you and Jacques.
So happy to see you back in the water! Fair winds.
Thank you, Shawn. We remain the in Town Basin for now. Tomorrow our North Sails rep will join us to set up our new mainsail, do a full hoist, run reefs etc – all at dockside and, of course, wind/weather permitting. With that behind us, we’ll be ready to leave the harbour and head out to the open sea where we can finally start sailing. Best to you and Nancy. I hope you’ve enjoyed your first winter in Halifax – one of my favourite places.
Sharon thanks for sharing the stories of life in the boat yard & your launch. Glad all systems are «go » now and you’re enjoying being at a dock close to town.
Many thanks, Ann!
Sharon thanks for sharing the stories of life in the boat yard & your launch. Glad all systems are «go » now and you’re enjoying being at a dock close to town.