Indonesia – The Homeward Leg
Our arrival in Indonesia marks a major transition to a completely different part of the world. We’ve now reached Asia. Home to 5 billion people – over 60% of all living humans.
For us, time is tight. We’ll have less than two weeks in Indonesia, before it’s time to fly home. The rub is, having come all this way, we’re reluctant to simply zoom by places we’ve dreamed of visiting, or things we probably won’t again have the opportunity to see in this very special part of the world.
Indonesia occupies a unique bit of aquatic real estate – a constriction zone sandwiched between two huge land masses. To the north is the mainland of Asia, to the south, Australia. For anyone traveling between the Indian and Pacific Oceans – be they sailors like us, or commercial vessels – the place is almost impossible to avoid.
The country also sits along a major fault line where three tectonic plates converge. Earthquakes are a daily occurrence. Many of the islands originated from volcanoes – about 130 are currently active. Indeed, no county has more volcanoes than Indonesia.
Among them Krakatoa – the most powerful and destructive volcano in recorded human history. The 1883 eruption was a mind-boggling 13,000 times more powerful than the atomic bomb blast that destroyed Hiroshima. Most of the island was obliterated. Tens of thousands of people were killed outright, and the resulting tsunamis claimed as many as one hundred thousand more lives throughout the region. The ash cloud obscured the sun worldwide, and lowered global temperatures for more than a year.
Indonesia is a surprisingly big country; comprised of more than 17,000 islands, strung out over nearly 5,000 kilometres of equatorial water – from Papua New Guinea all the way to to India’s Andaman Islands. It’s home to a diverse population of almost 300 million people.
There’s an almost endless list of not-to-be-missed attractions. Unfortunately, time is running short. Hard choices will need to be made. Fortunately, we’ll be back in the new year …
Our top priority is Komodo National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s home to the endangered Komodo Dragon, the world’s largest lizard. So rare, the first documented sighting took place just 115 years ago.
From Kupang, where we checked into Indonesia, we sailed northwest, over-night, through the Suva Sea to reach Komodo. The winds were mostly elusive, and the current contrary at times. But we arrived before sunset.
The next morning, Rusdin, a local guide from Komodo Village, and his sidekick Endy picked us up in a traditional long narrow boat, powered by a straight-piped diesel engine. Damn, was it loud. Fortunately, the trip was short. As in Kupang, there was a shocking amount of garbage both in the water and along the shoreline. A sad sight considering Komodo is a park with such lofty designation.
That said, the people we met were lovely, and the Komodo Dragons themselves were extremely impressive. Most of the dozen, or so, we saw were males, lounging about on the hard arid ground. These are large, robust animals – measuring as long as 3 metres and weighing upwards of 150 kilos – with huge bear-like claws.
Adults hunt in packs – mainly deer, wild pigs, and goats. They shred their prey or eat it whole, and can consume up to 80% of their own mass. Coupled with a slow metabolic rate, they don’t eat often – only once a month.
As interesting as Komodo was, and we just barely scratched the surface, we could only stay briefly before, lifting anchor and pressing on. After another two nights at sea we arrived at Lombok, where we celebrated our third anniversary by treating ourselves to a scrumptious dinner at an up-scale resort.
The next morning, we made our final passage – a short 30-mile sail in near-perfect conditions – to Marina del Ray on Gili Gede. Reputed to be one of the safest marinas in Indonesia, this is where we’ll leave Turtlebones for the next three months while we’re home in Canada.
Getting the boat all tucked away involves a lengthy list of chores. It’s similar to packing up a summer cottage for the season. Food stuffs need to properly stored or given away, seemingly everything needs to be cleaned and re-organized, and various mechanical bits need to be serviced. It’s more of a marathon that a sprint.
All too soon, or maybe just soon enough, it’s time to begin the journey home. We climb aboard a small local boat and bid Turtlebones farewell. After a short ride we board the ferry to Bali. From there we’ll catch a flight to Hong Kong, and spend a few days as tourists before flying home to Toronto on September 30th.
What an amazing time from NZ to here. Safe passage home!
Thanks Shawn, looking forward to catching up with you and Nancy in December.
Another great travelogue. The second paragraph (“Time is tight.”) struck me as a metaphor for life — at least for THIS 74-year old. An I felt a pang at the end — Sept 30 is dead ahead! Thank you for taking me with you…
Holy smokes what an amazing trip. It will be wonderful to see you again as I almost forget what you two look like. Oh wait …. the pic of Bill showering…burned into my brain now. 🫣😉
Mary, your comment certainly got us giggling. You’ll be seeing more of us very soon.
So well written, captivating. It all just takes my breath away (Mr. Bill included😉). Safe journey home.
Of course, I blame Sharon.
Wow, what a cool account of your last few days, Sharon. There’s so much information in every post that it’s always a fun and dare I say it, educational, read. Well, there, it’s out! I love them. Looking forward to a reunion and hearing all the details of your adventure.
Thank you for sharing your travels with us. I will miss reading and learning all about a part of the world that I will probably never see. Enjoy your time in Canada, wish we were still there to celebrate your homecoming and big birthdays.
We’ll resume the journey, and posting, in the early new year.
Safe travels.
Nice ass Billy!!!
Now that’s a place I would love to venture into!
What an awesome ride you two
See you at Christmas
Safe travels back
Xo
Kim
So happy to hear you and Dave will be in Canada for Christmas – see you soon.
Take me and Brian with you when you return to Indonesia…enjoy HK!
We are really loving our time here in HK. Quite the contrast – in a nice way – to the places we’ve recently been. Marvelous meal at Ho Lee Fook last night.
What a whirlwind voyage. You’re both such good story tellers felt I was there
& learned so much. Turtlebones is an awesome steady boat glad she kept you safe. Happy 3rd anniversary. See you back in Canada! 🇨🇦
Thanks Ann, Hard to imagine, but the ‘bones has traveled half way around the planet since you were last aboard in Costa Rica. Looking forward to catching up with you in Toronto. Go Jays go!
She’s a hardy & experienced vessel!!! I remember that short voyage fondly – and am in awe of the journeys since. I remember some of the closing down tasks (you draining the desalinating water tanks). Much harder than closing a cottage! True sailers must be constant problem solvers and McGuivers (sp?) coming up with creative solutions. Yes indeed magic number 2 for jays -well known today ! And awaiting our Raptors fall season.
Just woke up here in Hong Kong and was delighted to see that Jays got it done, and in fine style. Excited to know we’ll be home for their playoff run!
Grateful to have sailed together on Turtlebones this summer and to continue to sail with you through your writing and photos.
Safe home dear friends. xo
Having you and Jacques aboard for part of the adventure was certainly one of the highlights of our summer.
WOW!! Comodo dragons so up close and personal!! Lucky you will be back in this neck of the woods, or seas, next year so you can have a look at what you missed on your way back home! What a fabulous existence you two are leading!
Happy anniversary, and that resto looks fabulous!
Have a good, safe trip back, and let us know where you’re likely to be when you get home i.e. we don’t exactly know where “home” is these days!!
Take care, and we hope to see you before you are away again!!
Shelley & Danny
Home, for the next little while, will be the lovely town of Elora.
Belated Shanah Tovah greetings to you and Danny.
Was amazing to meet you in Ho Lee Fook the other night and hear regarding your travels.
What an amazing blog!
Britta
Dear Bill and Sharon,
Thanks for this wrap-up of your wonderful blog with more fascinating anecdotes and beautiful pictures. I’ve looked forward to each installment with the anticipation of a new episode of a favourite TV series. I can’t wait for the next season! You’re like rock stars of the high seas LOL! Seriously though, what a wonderful life you’ve carved out for each other, it’s truly inspiring. The serenity and joy on your faces in many of your photographs, in particular the one this time with the Komodo Dragon, speaks volumes. Happy Anniversary! Safe home…
Hello Barry,
Great to have you along on our journey. Being able to share it with friends and family brings us tremendous pleasure.
Stay tuned for another season.
Hi there sailors and lovebirds. Enjoy this last day abroad before your flight home. Thank you again for not only hosting Kim and I on Turtlebones while in Fiji but to also have kept us part of the whole journey through your so beautifully written blogs… ever thought of putting it down in a book? Bon voyage de retour!